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Which Roofs Can Take Solar Panels Metal / Tile / Concrete

Most Thai roofs can take solar — metal sheet, CPAC concrete tile, clay tile, corrugated zinc and concrete flat roofs — they differ in the 'mounting method' and the 'leak risk'. This page covers how each type mounts, which roofs are risky or can't be used, and which way and what tilt to face.

~8 min readLast updated: Aug 2026Sources verified: 23 Aug 2026

Almost any Thai roof can take solar — they differ in how the array is fixed: standing-seam metal sheet clamps on, often with no drilling; tile (CPAC / clay) uses roof hooks slipped under the tile and bolted to the rafters; a concrete flat roof / rooftop deck uses a ballasted, tilted frame. Roofs to be careful with or avoid are asbestos tile, old/rotten or under-strength structure, heavily shaded roofs, or a too-flat roof (<10°). In Thailand, face the panels south and tilt them about 10–18° for the best output and so rain rinses off dust. The key detail is proper flashing/sealing at every fixing point.

How does mounting differ on metal-sheet / tile / zinc roofs?

The difference is the mounting kit and the drilling/sealing. Standing-seam metal sheet clamps straight onto the seam — usually no roof penetration, so low leak risk and a fast install; trapezoidal/corrugated profiles may need hooks bolted to the purlin with the screw holes sealed. Concrete tile (CPAC) uses roof hooks slipped under the tile and bolted to the purlin/rafter (the tile itself is not drilled), positioned so the tile still seats flush. Clay/ceramic tile is brittle and cracks easily — it needs a skilled installer and the tile may have to be ground/cut around the hook. Corrugated zinc is fixed with hooks/screws and sealed, but if the sheet is old, thin or rusted it should be reinforced or replaced first. The table below summarises each.
Solar mounting by roof type
Roof typeMounting methodDrilling?Leak risk / cautionDifficulty
Metal sheet (standing seam)Clamp on the seamUsually noneLow (no penetration)Easy
Metal/zinc, trapezoidal-corrugatedHook/screw to purlin + sealDrill + seal screw holesMedium — seal well; check rust on old zincMedium
Concrete tile (CPAC)Roof hook under tile, to rafterBolt hook to frame (tile not drilled)Medium — seat tiles flushMedium
Clay / ceramic tileSpecial hooks, may grind/cut tileBolt to frameHigher — brittle tiles crack = leaksHard (skilled installer)
Concrete flat roof / deckBallasted, tilted frameLittle/none + waterproofingLow if no drill; else waterproof deckMedium (free tilt)

Solar mounting by roof type

Which roofs can't take solar / will it leak?

Roofs that are not recommended or need fixing first include asbestos tile (brittle, with safety concerns), old/rotten or under-strength structure, heavily shaded roofs (trees, buildings, water tanks) that cut output and risk hotspots, and a too-flat roof (<10°) that drains poorly and lets rain rinse off less dust. As for 'leaks' — a correctly installed array does not make a roof leak by itself; leaks come from a penetration with no proper flashing/seal, or a tile cracked by being stood on. So use a mounting kit matched to the roof type + flashing at every point and an installer who warranties the workmanship. A panel + mount typically adds about 15–20 kg/m²; if you are unsure the structure can carry it, have an engineer check it against install standards (EIT / วสท).
For permits, the รง.4 filing and grid interconnection, see what approvals rooftop solar needs. For factory/large-building roofs needing a deep structural assessment, see factory roof assessment before solar.

Which way should solar panels face, and at what tilt, in Thailand?

In Thailand (north of the equator), facing the panels south gives the most output, and a tilt of about 10–18° — close to the site's latitude (Thailand is roughly 6–20°N) — balances year-round yield with drainage. Use at least ~10–15° so rain rinses off dust and water doesn't pool. Facing east or west yields about 85–90% of due-south (spreading generation into the morning/afternoon, good for homes that use power then or on a TOU tariff), while north should be avoided as it gets the least sun. The table below summarises.
Panel orientation and tilt in Thailand (approx.)
Direction / angleRelative outputRecommendation
Facing south~100% (best)First choice where possible
East / West~85–90%Fine — spreads output; good for TOU
Facing northLowestAvoid if you can
Tilt angle~10–18°≥~10–15° so rain rinses + drains
If your roof doesn't face due south, it can still be worth it — layout and system size make up for it. See the install cost picture at solar installation cost breakdown.

Putting solar on your roof, step by step (5 decision steps)

Before the real install, work through these 5 steps to pick the right, leak-free approach:

  1. Identify the roof material, match the mounting kit

    Metal sheet = clamp/hook; tile = roof hook; flat deck = ballast — the wrong kit for the material is the number-one cause of leaks.

  2. Assess the structure / load-bearing

    Check the roof's age, the rafters/purlins, and the ~15–20 kg/m² it adds — if the roof is old or you're unsure, have an engineer check first.

  3. Pick orientation and tilt, avoid shade

    Face south at ~10–18° if you can; survey shade from trees/buildings/tanks across the day and lay out the array to dodge it.

  4. Flash and seal every fixing

    Every fixing/penetration needs correct flashing and sealant for the roof type, standard-grade hardware, and no standing on brittle tiles.

  5. Sign-off + paperwork/permits

    Test for leaks after install, keep the workmanship warranty, and complete the permit / grid-interconnection filing with the utility.

Permits and grid interconnection are mandatory for a grid-tied system — details at rooftop solar regulations.

Before you install: 5 roof things you can't skip

Panels live on the roof for 25 years — check these 5 before you decide:

Roof age / condition

If the roof is near end-of-life or already leaking, repair/replace it before installing — otherwise you'll have to remove the panels to fix it later, paying twice.

Load-bearing structure

Rafters, purlins and posts must carry the panel + mount (~15–20 kg/m²) plus wind load; have an engineer look at older or extended houses.

Shading

Trees, neighbouring buildings, water tanks, antennas — even partial shade drops a whole string's output and risks hotspots; survey shade across the day.

Waterproofing & workmanship warranty

Ask the installer what flashing they use and about the workmanship/leak warranty; put in the contract who is responsible if it leaks.

Usable roof area

Deduct the wrong-facing slopes, skylights, pipes, vents and edge setbacks — the truly usable area sets how many kW you can fit.

Complex roof, a building, or a factory?

A multi-plane roof, a tall building, or a factory needing a detailed structural and wind-load assessment should have an engineering team design the mounting and verify the load — see the factory side at factory roof assessment before solar; and if you're not sure which system to choose, see on-grid / off-grid / hybrid explained.
CapSolar designs and installs rooftop solar on every roof type — 80+ MWp across Thailand — including the mounting and waterproofing. Send a roof photo or house plan for an assessment.

Author & review

Written and reviewed by the CapSolar engineering team (rooftop solar EPC), citing installation practice and engineering standards (EIT / วสท) alongside utility knowledge sources (PEA Solar / MEA / SafeSaveThai). Tilt/orientation follow solar geometry; load figures are typical values — last verified 23 Aug 2026.

FAQ

Standing-seam metal sheet usually needs **no drilling** — it clamps onto the seam, so leak risk is low. Trapezoidal profiles or corrugated zinc may need hooks bolted to the purlin with the screw holes sealed; with correct flashing the leak chance is very low.

Want to know how many kW your roof can fit?

Send CapSolar a roof photo or house plan and we'll assess the roof type, mounting, orientation-tilt and the right install size.